This article will try to demystify the different kinds of leather you may have been exposed to. The most common being simply referred to as "leather" or "genuine leather". In this article we will go over some common phrases of leather and explain what each is, strengths and flaws and we will look at rough costs to produce and costs as they are sold to you as a consumer.

Note: The costs are estimates only for illustrative purposes and prices on the market may fluctuate or be different between different manufacturers. Price estimates are in USD.

 

PVC Leather

This isn't leather at all but vinyl plastic which has been embossed to look like leather. This is the most common "vegan" leather but it is just plastic.

Usage in many things from wallets, bags, small goods and clothing.

Typical cost range per square foot: Less than a cent

What price range it is sold to you as the consumer per square foot: Tens of cents to even multiple dollars

 

Bonded Leather

This is the lowest of the low grade of leather and what you will typically be sold when something is labelled as being "leather". This leather is just mulched up bits of Chrome tanned leather waste and combined with glue and pressed into sheets and then embossed to look like a top grain leather. This leather has no structural strength and will easily tear and break apart after a short period of time.

Usage mainly in cheap department store belts and low quality goods.

Typical cost range per square foot: Less than a cent, it's otherwise waste to the producer

What price range it is sold to you as the consumer per square foot: Tens of cents to even multiple dollars

 

Genuine Leather

This is the most nebulous phrase. This can actually mean any of these leathers mentioned here, even including PVC leather which isn't even an animal product. It used to hold some weight as a term

Usage in any sort of product.

Typical cost range per square foot: Cents

What price range it is sold to you as the consumer per square foot: Tens of cents to even a dollar.

 

Split Leather

This is actually part of full grain leather but it is the wastage part when the leather is split to be thinner. This is the region of the hide which is typically used as suede, however suede usually has most of if not all of the upper layers of the leather still intact, giving it great strength. This leather has a very loose fiber structure and is not particularly strong like suede, as it is lacking the dense fiber parts of the leather.

Usage in any sort of product.

Typical cost range per square foot: Cents

What price range it is sold to you as the consumer per square foot: Tens of cents to even a dollar.

 

Top Grain Leather

This is full grain leather which has been split to be thinner. It may not contain the actual skin top grain of the leather and is often embossed to look like it is. Many pieces of this "top grain" leather may be split off from a full grain hide. It still has decent strength but tends to be quite thin. Can be Chrome tanned or Vegetable tanned.

Usage in any sort of product.

Typical cost range per square foot: Tens of cents

What price range it is sold to you as the consumer per square foot: Almost a dollar or even over.

 

Full Grain Leather

This is actually what you want to buy as a consumer. It is the entire structure of the hide left in tact, perhaps with some splitting done on the lower layers to thin it out for practical use. This can be either Chrome or Vegetable tanned leather but it specifically means it is left in tact and you are not being fooled into believing it is anything but.

Typical cost range per square foot: Tens of cents for Chrome tanned to just over a dollar for a good vegetable tanned

What price range it is sold to you as the consumer per square foot: Dollars for Chrome tanned and 15-20 Dollars for vegetable tanned

 

Other leather phrases

Cactus Leather

This is a very new development. There are many vegan friendly leathers being developed from plant matters, but many fail to have any positive attributes to be useful. Cactus leather is probably the first of which and one which has been popularized recently. It has some strength and unlike other offerings the colours are relatively vibrant and attractive. We are considering offering this as a vegan friendly option in future.

Aniline Leather

Aniline leather is often confused as a method for tanning. It actually refers to the absence of finishing done on the top grain side of the leather, leaving it open to absorb oils and whatever else. Will develop a rich patina quite quickly.

Pullup or Crazy Horse Leather

Waxy leather with a pull up.

Suede

Leather which has been revered to have the flesh side facing out. It has what is called a nap, which is small fibers which feel soft, much like the reason why cotton or wools are soft. This has no surface treatment and thus they are prone to stains from water and other liquids. Care must be taken, typically using a water proof spray every few months.

Nubuck

A full grain or top grain leather which has been sanded down on the grain side to produce a suede like nap which is much finer and softer than suede due to the finer grain structure. We absolutely love Nubuck leather. Just like suede, it is highly susceptible to water and stains and care must be taken to treat and maintain it.

Waxy Commander

Suede leather which has been heavily waxed to counteract the main disadvantage of suede, its susceptibility to water. The wax causes water to just roll off. Used typically for durable boot leather. Will develop a patina and can look incredible.